Texvet

Hello All -

I am new to the world of Saab's My dad turned me on to them and I think they are a wonderful auto. I am intrigued by the design, quality and simplicity. With that being said - I have encountered my first challenge. I want to replace the drive belts and am looking for some advise before get started.

Is there an "easy" way to get after the belt changing project? Working space seems to be limited. My car is a 91 16V non-turbo.

Thanks in advance,
Brad

dramakaze

Hi Brad, Hello From Scotland

haha, now you're asking a bit of a question!!!

first of all , if your car is a 9000, it IS a painful job, but achievable with gritted teeth , a lot of swearing and a couple of hours to spare!!!

On working space, you will definitely need to remove the appropriate roadwheel and wheel arch trim and Liner (a few nuts and bolts)easy peasy...
this is essential to get enough room to do said job!!!

If you are replacing the belt, i recommend replacing the plastic idler pulley(s) while you are at it!(they are cheap and easy to replace, and are miserably weak!!!!!

(just bare in mind that you should only attempt all of this if you have a suitable workshop manual) Haynes make a semi decent manual, about £15, but much needed for reference.

You may also need a tool for holding the tensioner in place (you may have to make it!)

This is based on my '94 9000 turbo , which has a single drivebelt and tensioner , it may be easier for your car, i will look into it and post my findings....

If you don't have/can't get a manual, i can (try) to run you through it if i have the info....

dramakaze

HAVE LOOKED INTO OLDER 9000 BELT REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE.
BELOW IS BASED ON A B202 ENGINE (NON BALANCE SHAFT)

IF YOUR CAR HAS TWO BELTS, ONE WILL BE A V-TYPE BELT RUNNING YOUR AIR CONDITIONING,
THE OTHER WILL BE FOR WATER PUMP , POWER STEERING ETC.

YOU MAY EITHER HAVE TWO MANUAL TENSION ADJUSTERS (ONE FOR EACH BELT),
OR ONE MANUAL TENSIONER AND ONE AUTOMATIC TENSIONER.(SHOULD BE OBVIOUS WHEN EXAMINED)

THE GOOD NEWS IS THAT YOU SHOULDN'T NEED A TENSIONER HOLDING TOOL FOR EITHER MANUAL OR AUTOMATIC TENSIONERS ON AN OLDER CAR (PRE '93, I THINK) ACCORDING TO HAYNES THAT IS.....

REMEMBER TO MAKE A QUICK SKETCH OF THE BELTS ROUTING BEFORE YOU TAKE IT OFF, THIS CAN SAVE A LOT OF HEAD SCRATCHING WHEN YOU COME TO PUTTING THE BELT ON.(AND TRUST ME YOU MAY THINK IT WILL BE SIMPLE TO REMEMBER, BUT IT CAN BE VERY CONFUSING)

IT IS SIMPLY A CASE OF LOOSENING THE LOCKNUT 90 DEGREES OR SO ON THE MANUAL TENSIONER AND THEN RELEASE THE TENSION FROM THE BELT WITH THE ADJUSTER AND REMOVE BELT , REMEMBER TO TENSION THE NEW BELT PROPERLY (15MM MOVEMENT WITH THUMB PRESSURE ON ITS LONGEST RUN)

WITH THE AUTOMATIC TENSIONER FOR THE MAIN DRIVEBELT ON OLDER CARS YOU JUST NEED TO
USE A POWER BAR OR LARGE RATCHET ON THE TENSIONER PULLEY BOLT HEAD
(THE ONE THAT SECURES THE PULLEY ITSELF,DON'T WORRY ABOUT THE BOLT COMING UNDONE AS IT IS OPPOSITE THREADED FROM NORMAL BOLTS ) ,
PUSH DOWN TO RELEASE THE TENSION AND THEN REMOVE THE BELT.

WHEN REPLACING BELT, LOCATE BELT ON ALL PULLEYS EXCEPT THE WATER PUMP PULLEY THEN USE THE POWER BAR/RATCHET TO PUSH THE TENSIONER DOWN UNTIL YOU CAN SLIP THE BELT OVER THE WATER PUMP PULLEY.RELEASE THE TENSIONER AND THE BELT WILL TENSION ITSELF AUTOMATICALLY.

BARE IN MIND THAT THE GROOVED MULTI-V BELT MUST BE SEATED PROPERLY INTO IT'S CORRECT POSITION ON ALL PULLEYS WHEN REPLACED OR IT WILL SPLIT AND GET RIPPED CLEAN OFF.

THE DETAILS CAN VARY SLIGHTLY, BUT COMMON SENSE WILL DO JUST FINE, AS WILL A FRIEND TO HELP WHEN AUTOMATIC TENSIONERS ARE INVOLVED!!!