CV Axle/joint

Old 10-11-2012, 06:18 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Alberta Canada
Posts: 32
Post CV Axle/joint

1994 Saab 9000 Aero Turbo;

The passenger side CV boot has been torn and the joint went to crap.
I ordered a complete CV axle, being cheaper than any inner or outer joint i could find.
Going to be working on it sometime this month..
Anybody have any tips on this job?

Attached Thumbnails CV Axle/joint-img_3099e.jpg  
reidg is offline  
Old 12-27-2012, 07:20 PM
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I took both drive shafts out of a 9K yesterday. Not a bad job to do.

First thing you need is a 32mm socket on a straight bar, supplemented by a length of very heavy pipe. Pop out the wheel centre to expose the nut on the end of the drive shaft, and use the socket, etc, to loosen this. If it ABSOLUTELY won't budge, take the wheel off, put the car in gear, get an assistant to stand on the brakes, and welly the nut loose with a large, sharp and very good quality cold chisel - cut into the nut at 45 degrees about two-thirds of the way along one flat, and keep hammering with the heaviest hammer you can manage until it starts to move - eventually it will. But you will need a new nut afterwards!

Back to the main track, assuming you can loosen the nut with a socket and long extension. Next, jack up and take the wheel off. Then remove the caliper holder - two 18mm bolts on its inner face - and lift the entire caliper assembly and the brake disk out of the way. Then remove the plastic inner wheel arch - a series of 10mm bolts and it comes away in two pieces.

Now remove the brake disk carrier. This is an easy job with a large three-legged sprocket-puller - not sure how I'd have managed without one! This comes off the splines on the end of the shaft, and with it removed the shaft flops around loose.

Now remove the two 18mm bolts that hold the bottom of the suspension unit in place - a bit of heat, some welly, and even a drift may be required because of corrosion. Turn the steering wheel, and you will with some manipulation be able to get outer end of the drive shaft out of the hole so it flops free completely.

Finally, you need to remove the steel band that holds the inner end of the inner rubber boot onto the engine. With this away, the whole drive shaft will pull free. WATCH for the puddle of grease that will run out!!

Reassembly is the reverse of the above. Good luck.
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Old 03-09-2013, 04:56 AM
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Hello everyone,
I'm a newbie and hope everyone will be fine.My name is james nuten and i living in USA. I really like the topics of this forum And i hope that you will allow me to participate in this forum for a long period.
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:35 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Alberta Canada
Posts: 32

Yeah got both axles replaced without a problem...
was able to re-grease the wheel bearings at the same time.
Probably the weirdest thing were those wheel bearings
They were kind of in three parts: outer portion was integral to the brake rotor,
bearings were in the steering knuckle, and there was an outer raceway loose fitted on the cuff of the outter CV joint.

Thanks for the directions they helped alot!
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Old 05-31-2013, 06:16 AM
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Did you manage to solve it yet? Try getting it solved by a pro.
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Old 06-12-2013, 12:44 AM
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it is really nice post i like this info i appreciate this post keep it up.........
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Old 10-31-2013, 12:01 AM
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I had a bent rear axle and I had to change it. It cost nearly 30k for me. is the fiat palio’s rear axle really that costly. Even the second hand parts cost around 25K so I decided on to get a new one instead.

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Last edited by pondshus2; 04-05-2018 at 01:24 AM. Reason: Profile data changed
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