hawaiisaab93

i have a oil change in like 500 miles and ive been saving my money to have the oil sludge removed...wanna do a complete engine tune up...everything cant wait to see this bill

nbsman

Can you describe step-by step proceduresof removing oil pan?

nbsman

that's what i found i carsurvey.com, ithink it might be useful.
OK, I here your problems and maybe I can offer some solutions to people who haven't had the sludge problem yet. First, when you buy a used car, have everything flushed and cleaned with some sort of engine flush solvent!!! And tell the auto dealership that you want to watch the work and you will sign any safety waiver you need to sign to be in the garage. Second, go to a local muffler shop and have them either remove the cat converter, move it to a different location, or have them wrap it in a high temp insulation material (remember the oil is cooking into sludge). Third, only use synth oil in the car and replace it often - after all your own a 40k car. Fourth, have a dealer install a direct flow oil injector into the turbo, allowing it to be cooled better. It costs about 300 but it is better than a new engine. Fifth, replace the oil pan with a better metal pan. Saabs aren't the only cars that can run hot, get a pan that can handle the heat, from the cat which is below the pan. Sixth, only use the best oil filters (fram) and change with every oil change!!! It is the life line in these cars. And last, but not least, add some kind of additive to the car's engine. I used the one they advertised on tv when they ran the engine with out oil. Well, I did a test using that stuff on a VW golf which the fan wasn't working. I wanted to destroy the car. Ran it without oil until I sold it to a friend of mine who replaced the oil pump that was bad. The engine won't seize if the heat isn't there. Lesss friction will reduce heat, and prevent the mental shavings from becoming metal shavings. I have owned a 9000 turbo, a 900 turbo, and also an orange 99 saab in the past. The cat converter is the problem, nothing else, if your having this problem right now ADDD THIN OIL NOT REGULAR OIL - THIN THE SLUDGE UNTIL YOU CAN GET THE ENGINE FLUSHED AND RESTORED!!! Class action suits sound great, but just having some grease monkey move the cat will solve the problem - leave it to the welder - and pay him in cash - I believe messing with the muffler system is illegal, but so is speeding.[/align][/align]

nbsman

i'm going to install this thermal insulation

http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...;ProdID=184820


between oil pan and catalytic ,hope it will reduce temperature of oil in the oil pan ,this way it will be cheaper than putting catalityc farher from oil pan. (wonder why saab didn't install something like that, knowing the sludge problem)

Roto

Wow.....that was a little bit overexagerated... You don't need to modify anything or add anything...just clean the pan and that's t, good to go for another 50-60K. Don't spend money you don't have to spend.

xhawksaab

nbsman,
Although there is some evidence that the heat from the location of the cat might contribute to the sludging problem (which, although is a very serious problem for those who face it, may only effect 5 to 7% of the 9-3s and 9-5s with 4 cyl. turbos). (See Chuck Andrews write-ups in Nines or on www.saabpros.com in regard the cat and heat as well as the sludge issue.) IMHO the issue is both more complicated (causes) and yet simpler (cures) than that. The reasons for the sludge problem include (in no particular order); the location of the cat, overly long oil change intervals (as recommended by the factory), inadequately designed PCV system (now on revision #6), numerous cold-starts without adequate driving time to blow out condensation and the use of non-synthetic oils. Research that I have done indicates that there are three basic things that one can due to greatly reduce the sludging problem. 1) If you have not already had PVC #6 installed, DO IT! 2) Change to a good quality synthetic oil that meets ACEA A3 or B3 and xW-40 weight (see Chuck Andrews again). 3) Change your oil, at most, every 5,000 miles (or in cold climates, 3,000 miles in the winter). These three things will greatly reduce your risk of sludge. If you want to heat shield your cat from your oil pan, I guess that wouldn't hurt.

Also, research has shown me NOT to use Fram oil filters unless it is the Extended Guard and there are equal or better oil filters out there for lower cost. Purolator Plus One, WIX, NAPA Gold (made by WIX), Mobil 1, Amsoil and others are filters that are as good if not better than any Fram filter and are often cheaper.

I do/run the following: I change my oil every 3000 miles from the first oil change around Dec. 1 to the last oil change around April 1, then every 5000 miles using Shell Rotella T 5W-40 synthetic oil (ACEA A3), NAPA Gold 1515 filter (originally for a Ford truck, higher capacity, allows me to put 5 quarts of oil in the car).

Roto

Revision #6 is for T7 cars I believe... Also good note of fram filters, they're junk.

nbsman

i think i'll do the pvc in a month or so together with engine overhaul,now i'm taking care of front suspension ,exhaust,also trying to figure out stall problem ,seems like pressure leak somewhere.Going to clean oil pan and change oil ,and here's the question a bought mobil1 0w-40 which is recommended by saab techs ,but what do you thin about it and what the difference between that oil and 5w-30 or 5w-40?

xhawksaab

nbsman,
The reference I gave in a previous post regarding Chuck Andrews also includes info about the best weight oil to use. SAAB oil pumps have some clearance issues and may not consistently provide adequate oil pressure on xW-30 oil. He recommends xW-40 weight. As for 0W-40 versus 5W-40, the 0W-40 will flow better at low temps than the 5W-40, although it may not be a large difference.

Roto,
Thanks for the reminder on Revision #6 and T7s. Weren't some '99 9-3s that were late in the model year, T7s?

Roto

yeah... 99.5 were T7.