Intermittent starting problem!

Old Apr 7, 2010 | 12:27 AM
  #21  
DanielEvak's Avatar
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Default ps: N S Switch

Since I am in a part of the world where mechanic expertise is lacking (and I do most of my own work) where is the exact location of the NSS.
Since it took your guy only 20 min to install, the console must not have to be removed. (On my Volvos, it was on the shifter; can I safely assume the same?) thx; means a lot to me to save time and to get this resolved!
Old Apr 15, 2010 | 08:33 AM
  #22  
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First of all I didn't recommend anyone, I replaced the NSS myself, so I don't understand that comment. But on the 2001 Saab 9-3, It's located under the battery. It is a pain to get to because of the metal battery brace that is welded to the finder well. I drilled a 1/2" hole just above the bolt on the shift linkage in order to put a 3/8" extension through. You have to put a socket on the bolt first and slide the extension through the drilled hole.
Old Apr 15, 2010 | 08:36 AM
  #23  
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It been a while since I change the NSS, it was the problem. The car has been running fine.
Old Oct 15, 2010 | 02:17 PM
  #24  
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Default Intermittent starting problems

I have a 2002 convertible which has exactly the same problems described.Replaced starter ,battery and the relay under the dash also.Only happens on short runs also.Did anyone get a final answer to this problem it's driving me and the garage Nut's.Anyone know the wiring layout for the twice module and if that could be the culprit.That's gotta be expensive to replace without any test procedures.Fixing a problem that self corrects itself in it's own time means no fault for testing !!!
Old Oct 16, 2010 | 08:51 PM
  #25  
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Royalco, the safety neutral switch was the problem for me. It's been a while now since I replaced mine and have had no problems. It was the problem. The switch is located on the top of the transmission under the battery bracket. To get the top nut on the shifter, I had to drill a 1/2" hole to stick a 3/8" extension through it to access the socket. That made the job a little less frustrating. It is by far the most expensive neutral switch I've ever bought. About $330... Hope this helps!
Old Oct 18, 2010 | 06:32 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by willyffej
Carolmorrisey:
We haven't yet solved the problem. On this forum, Roto has eloquently argued for the Crankshaft Position Sensor being the culprit, but my new mechanic here in LA tells me that if the CPS wasn't functioning I'd still be hearing starting or turnover noises, which I'm not. Hard to know who to believe.

This new mechanic is pretty certain (though not 100% so) that the Neutral Safety Switch is to blame. He cleaned mine (basically unhooking the connection, spraying it with WD40, and blowing it off with compressed air) but he claims there's a low probability a simple cleaning will fix the problem.

If the problem persists the next fix is to replace the Neutral Safety Switch altogether, about a $500 deal. We're on an expensive hunt.

willyffej
roc here
hi I read with great interest about your problem because I have the same I have found that i had no supply voltage to the starter solenoid which means it could not be the starter. I agree that if the engine does
not turn over it cannot be the crankshaft sensor and this normally would not show unless it had completly failed the starter relay is hiden behind the lower part of the dash so why not ask your mechanic to remove the trim and show you which relay it is so you can swop it as there are 3 in a row all the same grey? this would confirm or illiminate the relay. i take it that your car is an automatic and yes it could be the neutral safety switch. can you take the ignition key out when not i park ? can you move the gear lever from park to neutral with ignition on ENGINE NOT RUNNING
ask your mechanic to check if you can then its most likely to be that switch. finally are your central locking key fobs working ok batteries ok as they may be stoping the immobilizer from de activating
Old Oct 19, 2010 | 12:02 PM
  #27  
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Default I got it resolved

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...%26+Drivetrain

I bouth Neutral Safety Switch for $240 and it tokk 20 min for a mech, to change it .
Regards ( has been done 6 month ago )
Old Oct 19, 2010 | 01:28 PM
  #28  
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Default Starting problem solved for me

I posted earlier this year on this board that I was having the starting issues that everyone here is talking about. Every week (on average) I would turn the key of my 2001 Saab 9-5 and all the electronics would come on and I would hear a ticking under the hood while the key was turned...but it wouldn't start. After 3 to 30 minutes it would start and be okay for another week. I took it to my mechanic and he replaced the neutral safety switch (transmission range switch) and I haven't had the problem since at least May 2010. I hope this is helpful. I know it's a frustrating problem to have! Good luck!
Old Oct 28, 2010 | 08:10 AM
  #29  
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Default True Fix

This could be due to 100 different problems. There is a true fix. If you install an aftermarket push button start kit that runs directly to your starter it will fix it unless the starter is bad. DO NOT go through countless repairs, this is a nightmare problem for the early 2000 Saabs. The push button start kit costs about 40 bucks. It is a 30 minute install. I have worked through this problem with dozens of Saabs that had issues with anything from an ignition switch to a ground issue....it's not worth it. The push button start works every time! Test the starter to make sure it is working, if it is this WILL WORK.
Old Jul 10, 2011 | 12:28 AM
  #30  
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Default I just met this problem today

Went to the supermarket. When I left, the car can not start. It is 2008 saab 93 aero. The dealer in Houston is very far from me and it is Saturday today. So I toll the car to a garage nearby. I will let them know it is likely the NSS issue.
My car is still under warranty. Can dealer fix it (change part) for free? Is that possible to start the car directly through starter by mechanic and I can drive to the dealer?

Thanks.

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